Wednesday, June 20, 2012

...give four kisses

An unreal heat has descended upon the Holy Land. Breathing is sweating; walking is galloping, and sitting in the sun, suicide. So much for being sun-kissed, I think, as I flee the shadeless patches of my walk to work and den myself in the comfort of a cement cave with an electric wind. And as I look out the window, I wish I could bear Heaven’s Eye which has thus far tanned my skin. I want her to continue, to infuse, to brown, to kiss. But, alas, she has become the lidless, greedy eye of Sauron. Curses.

Mr. Typhoon
So I ask myself what I should write about on these days so hot that I feel as though I cannot think, that all my creative energy within is sitting at a conference table somewhere coming up with new ways to cool me down…

Forget it. I’ll just turn on a fan and have a staring contest with it…Huuuuuh, it always wins. Curse your lidless eye, too, Mr. Typhoon.

I pick up another class tomorrow, since one class ended last week. This one will be with thirteen and fourteen year olds. Nice. Finally something to be confident about: if I can’t teach ‘em, I can woo ‘em. They are most likely beginners with a lot of knowledge but hardly any understanding. They may recognize Present Continuous, but they sure don’t know why we use it. So it will be fun? Inshallah. God willing. Even without fluency in Arabic.

See, Tim is the owl. He is elusively wrapping his mind around Arabic more and more. He studied Linguistics so solving languages is something he just does. He knows the questions to ask and the sounds to listen for and the patterns to recognize, and then he swoops down out of the darkness and makes his linguistic catch. I, however, am a chameleon. I camouflage. I like being with the people and learning the cultural customs, but I cant really communicate with them and when I try, my eyes go wonky. But its not really fair. Tim gets to do all the understanding and complex conversating, while I’m stuck being kissed.

Oh. Thanks.

The sun, raging as she sets.
But it is the custom here. Well, one of them. When you see a friend or relative you haven’t seen for a while, you greet each other with four kisses on the cheeks. Right, left, “how’reyou,” right, “I’mgood,” left. Continue. Of course, this is only done with those of the same sex, so, if anything, I am learning how prickly men’s faces really are (do women like this?).

I guess this isn’t so bad, though. But then there are these few people who, for whatever reason, enjoy greeting me every time with this labial hello. I think I received twenty kisses yesterday. Twenty.

So I have traded the sun’s kiss for the man’s. And yet, I can’t lie and say I wish I could trade back, that it would stop or that I don’t prefer it. No, it’s just different. And as foreign as it is, and sometimes uncomfortable, I must admit it actually makes me proud to receive this greeting. It is as if I am indeed one of them, that somehow they are seeing me as a brother, as a friend.

So I suppose I don’t need to rue the end of my affair with the sun, for even without her kiss, my skin is still changing color. Just, from the lips of another. I am browning. I am camouflaging. I am Arab. 

Just an illiterate one. 

5 comments:

  1. Shalom/Salaam Simon! Just read all of your blog posts in order. What a fascinating story. So pleased to hear that you are immersing yourself in the culture and language. Pleased, but not in the least surprised, that you would relish every moment of the opportunity and the experience. Your writing is superb and vivid and does your teachers proud. :) It is a rare writer who can make his readers believe that we are right next to him sharing every sensation and interaction. I will look forward to your posts this summer. All best wishes! - Diane Whitmore

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    1. Thanks so much, Diane. And it is great to hear from you.

      Glad you are enjoying the stories...I trust you are having some adventures of your own!

      See you soon, Inshallah.

      Salaam

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  2. Salam, Mr. Simon!
    My name is Adel. I was directed here by my co-worker, Abdul-Salam, the deaf young man you had met earlier at the Himoni's. He's been mentioning you every now and then excitedly. I don't really have much to say, I just thought I'd say hi and let you know I'll be following you. Don't worry, by following I mean reading your posts, I'm not a stalker!

    I was curious why anyone would leave a first-world country to come live in a third-world one, especially one which is particularly known to be rather problematic. I guess I'll be finding out more as I read. I admit that I have a lingering desire to travel, but alas, I'm financially incapable of doing so, and Palestinians are especially not welcomed in other countries. Hell, we're not even welcomed in our own country! I remember watching a movie called "Into The Wild" about a young man's soul searching travel. Although I'm not sure what you're doing is similar, I certainly don't hope for a similar end of the journey (he died in a trailer park!)

    Enjoy your stay.

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    1. Thanks for the reply, Adel! Abdul-Salam is a good man and I enjoy communicating with him. He is my cousin, now, since I am Himony.

      I traveled to Palestine first in January on an educational/tourism trip and I really enjoyed my time. I spent some time with Arabs in Bethlehem, Jericho, Jerusalem and Nazareth and knew that I wanted to come back. So my friend and I found a way to come and we ended up in Khalil. It has been a great time already and I look forward to many more experiences and stories!

      And I also hope that I don't end up like "Into the Wild." But I have people around me whereas he was isolated, so I think I'll be ok :)

      Thanks for reading!
      Simon

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    2. That's cool. Now that I read back my original post, it was quite inappropriate of me, that reference to that movie and its ending. I apologize.
      -Adel (http://my.opera.com/adelamro)

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