|
Some Santa Barbara |
California is indeed a menagerie of climates and atmospheres
and moods. I didn’t see the entire south-north stretch, but I got most of it
from Los Angeles through Sacramento and up to the Mount Shasta area before
leaving the state for Oregon. I believe the Northwest really begins in the
roots of Shasta. Though Sac and The City and L.A. and Santa wherever each have a unique feel, they are certainly all California-y.
|
Some Hollywood |
But as soon as the flatness starts rumbling
again and that white capped mountain shines brightly in the distance, things
begin to change. The pines come out in force, and rivers dig gorges into earth
again and rocks thrust into the sky in a frozen excitement loom over the
winding man-made highway. This is the Northwest.
But before I was there I was somewhere between the Southwest
and the West.
|
Some Vegas |
It seems like so long ago, now, when I was standing in Las
Vegas looking up at sights I’d only seen in movies and feeling a bit cardboard,
like I was in one of those movies, as a prop or scenery perhaps, that those
facades would all be torn down when the final take is completed, to be
replaced, that the illusion of
three-dimension was accomplished by skilled artists and master magicians. I
couldn’t do anything but stand and look around—besides, there isn’t really
anything to do if you aren’t
checking in somewhere and gambling. Perhaps that isn’t completely true—it felt
that way—for it wasn’t void of excitement. No, there was electricity in the
air—not just what was lighting up the whole strange colony—and everyone was in
love. Couples meandered, took selfies and laughed, sometimes stumbling, and
that joy was infectious. This is the city of sin, right? Well I didn’t have
much time to indulge in many of my vices, so a cigarette had to suffice. I lit up,
looked around, left.
|
Some San Simeon |
After the long descent through Apple Valley the great state
of California greeted me and I managed my way into L.A. Good thing for GPS;
without it navigating the inverted labyrinths of roadways would have been
impossible. Southern California was not without its perks—namely congenial
weather—and the traffic wasn’t even so bad
as the rumors purport. But you do drive everywhere. I know I drive everywhere in my own hometown, but
the driving is thicker in L.A., or something. You want to wipe it all off like
sweat, but it sticks too well. It may be some illusion—if it is, it is
besieging—but everything seems so far away and takes so much energy to find and
at the end of the day you wonder if you spent more time behind the wheel or
away from it.
|
Some Los Angeles |
It was a kind of relief to leave the valley and traverse the
beautiful coastline up through Santa Barbara and then to Monterey and Carmel
and Solinas and then to San Francisco (aka “The City”). The coast surprised me,
actually. Thinking it similar to the golden shores of Miami, which is maybe the
case in the L.A. area, it was oftener steep drops into crashing waves, like
Icarine mountains that finally realized it was too hot and decided to go for a
swim, somersaulting into the Pacific. As I went it proved to be a continuous (really) collision. North of San Francisco the coastal road
was so windy I slalomed my way north feeling like a test driver avoiding orange
cones in one of those commercials.
|
Some Carmel |
But the Bay Area should not be passed over without mention.
It is much larger than I ever anticipated—I’m not sure why—but just as hilly.
The City is brimming with an energy, artistic, historic, diverse. The Spanish
heritage is revived in authentic taquerias, and new and used bookstores speckle
the strips of shops on roads filled with so many people dressed conspicuously
that they are swallowed in a sea of eclecticism, like all those beautiful
lights blinking at the same time in Vegas where the gorgeous marble statues go
unnoticed. There seemed to be quite the “immigrant” population—all
friendly—Easterners who abandoned their home for a Western one settle in the
most Eastern city of the West. Honestly, Frisco’s a regular New York or Boston,
in feel. But the city’s veins run west, and that attracts we who want something
different, but the same, sort of.
|
Some San Francisco |
So, I suppose it is like any other city in these regards.
And maybe I liked it because all this time out West makes me long for home.
Maybe that’s what’s nice about Oregon: how East it feels—they have a Portland
even!—and no matter how close to the sunset I get, my heart is in his rise.
Isn’t that what I loved about Santa Fe? How like morning she was, clear and
fresh and crisp? Isn’t that what I left in Vegas and L.A., the cities who wake
and live in the electrified dark?
The New Yorkian skyline of The City (not to mention the
arrogance—our city is best) is familiar
so far from familiarity. I lighten up.
|
Some Northwest |
How good to bookend the trip, from one Portland to the
other; from one pineland to another; from East to West. It makes me think how
we really are all one, all United Statesian. Being at Pacific’s scratching
fingers I am no farther from Atlantic’s reach. I stand on her shores and look
far into the distance, to the Cathays and Tartars I may never see, may not even
exist. Isn’t it true? Far enough West brings me still farther East after all.
My heart is in his rise...
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